To book for MsMarmitelover's supper club go to http://www.wegottickets.com/undergroundrestaurant for dates and details.

Monday, 30 March 2009

[G]astrology

Goats cheese 'Capricorn' and Beluga lentils

Trying to think of an idea for the Aquarian cocktail but this lavender cordial didn't work

Had to fit 34 people in. View from the hallway.

Bills from Portobello rd market. Trying to keep track of all the expenses.

Making the gratin dauphinoise, adding fresh bay leaves, then double cream.

The amazing Aquarian cocktail, with menu behind.

The goats cheese for the Pluto in Capricorn dish, on Beluga lentils, created and prepared by Neil Spencer

Petra Chocstar enjoys a cocktail. Wearing her trademark red stilettos, clickclick "there's no place like a home restaurant, there's no place like a home restaurant"

Johnny 'you scratched the surface' and Jo, my rockabilly front of house.

Neil Spencer gives a packed house an amusing and interesting talk on food and astrology.

Red, yellow pepper, capers, green pickled peppercorns, pepperonata. Mars in Aries.

Sometimes I have to plate up on the floor: salad and pepperonata

Z list! Caroline Simpson, writer, Trish Walsh Smith, the youtube divorce lady, Michelle Knight, psychic, Anna Richardson presenter of Channel Four's 'Sex Education' show.

Raspberry Air, the Jupiter in Aquarius 'cup of exaggeration'

Venus in Taurus: Negre en chemise, with chocolate stars on top courtesy of Petra Chocstar.

Leftovers being eaten at lunch the next day, thai soup and gratin.

It was fun but exhausting preparing for my astrological dinner, here's the lowdown:

Tuesday: Met with Neil Spencer at his house to try out his Pluto in Capricorn dish of goats cheese (Cap) on black lentils (Pluto). Then Neil introduced me to Earth foods in Kentish Town where Gillian, the wine person, gave me some organic wines to taste. Even walking through the shop I felt healthier, invigorated. It had a special smell. Next we browsed through Phoenicia Food Hall where I bought orange flower water, rose-water, mint water, a big bunch of fresh lemon grass for a quid and a strange Greek substance which I have now lost. Kentish Town is turning into a foodie's mecca.
We also nipped into A & K Warehouse, which has a great selection of cookware at reasonable prices. We were looking for Neptunian forks for our Neptune in Aquarius cocktail but no luck.
Wednesday: Chef Roberto Cortez comes to show me how to make 'caviar'. The original suggestions from Tristan Stephenson was with raspberry 'caviar' but I changed that to Blue Curacao which I felt would look more space-age, futuristic and Aquarian plus the orange notes would match nicely with the lemon vodka, Elderberry syrup, lemon juice and Cava.
The process of how to make the caviar is in the post below. I decided to use the raspberries I had bought for the 'air' dish. I funked it up by adding some Creme de Cassis.
Thursday and Friday: shopping at Portobello market in the morning. Quick break for a coffee and custard tart at Café Lisboa. More shopping, for ingredients for the soup, in the afternoon at huge Chinese supermarket, Wing Yip, near Staples corner.
I receive checks in the post from astrologers who haven't been organised enough to book in advance. I'm panicking. I literally do not have enough chairs and tables. I start to feel irritated. Myself and Jessica Adams, my psychic/astrologer friend organised this dinner 6 weeks ago at the original price of £15 a head for astrologers. The offer ended 3 weeks ago. Astrologers, few of whom have bothered to read my blog or understand my project, are now clamouring to get in. Some of them are even lying, pretending they have paid already when they haven't. Jessica smooths things over and begs me to squeeze in a couple more.
Friday night: Twitter geeks @Hexayurt, @evangineer and @mikepostcap come over plus their mate Gaz whose wife also does 'extreme catering' for an OTO 'moot' in a castle 'Gnosis'. The men help me move a huge table over the balcony into the living room with Hexayurt scientifically directing operations in his Scottish Hindu accent
"this is a problem of mass"
"at all times there should be four sets of hands on the table"
(he has worked in disaster relief and given lectures at the Pentagon). We sit down for snacks and drink. We chat about 'collapsonomics'. I should be getting on with cooking. But it's too interesting. I met @Hexayurt at the Mayfair school of thought and again at @dougald's School of Everything. He's super intense and charismatic. Inspired by the lecture at The company of Astrologers...'Facing the financial winter', I'd like to get financial astrologers, collapsonomic experts and forward-thinking political types together to brainstorm at an Underground Restaurant event. Watch this space.
When they leave at 12.30 am, I feel overwhelmed by tiredness. I have barely started. I call my friend Caroline Simpson, who talks me off the ledge with her comforting mantra "you are doing really well".
Whip up soup mix (lemon grass, galangal, ginger, garlic, salt, sugar, tamarind, red chillies, spinach) and dry roast seeds in tamari(shelled hemp, sunflower, pumpkin, linseed, toasted nori sheets crumbled in, a few toasted coriander seeds, cumin, dried mint, crushed pistachios).
Bed.
Sat: Wake up earlyish. Slice potatoes thinly for gratins. Think thank god I have now invested in a food processor. Rub trays (5!) with garlic and butter. Lay potato slices. Add fresh bay leaves, double cream, salt. (Didn't salt enough though).
Finish soup by adding large tins of coconut milk, tiny pea-like aubergines, mange-tout, fresh mint.
Wash rocket and watercress salad. Make French dressing from Dijon mustard, olive oil, salt, finely minced garlic and lemon juice. A true French dressing, Lyonnais style, doesn't have much vinegar.
Slice up red and yellow bell peppers, onions, garlic for pepperonata. Leave to soften in big pan. Roast cherry tomatoes to add in.
Mix, knead and rise bread dough for focaccia.
At 5.30 Neil Spencer arrives with a vat of black Beluga lentils and gorgeous little Sussex goat cheese. Johnny and Jo, my glamourous tattooed, pierced, front of house couple arrive, a vision of red and black rockabilly. Petra arrives in Jimmy, her chocstar van. She knows the form now, where to plug in Jimmy.
At 7pm a couple arrives early, Food Urchin and Mrs Food Urchin, bearing a gift of wild garlic. It's raining, even hailing outside.
Johnny, dryly:"Shall we kick 'em out in the rain or give 'em a drink?"
At 7.15 pm my parents arrive. My mum is an astrologer, DF Astrol. I can't even seat them because of the last minute astrologers. My mum spends the night washing up and being snapped at by me. Sorry mum and dad!
7.30pm It's showtime folks! Almost a full house. I put on some false eyelashes in lieu of mascara. One of them keeps veering off at the corner.
"Try and keep the guests out of the kitchen for the first couple of courses" I tell Johnny and Jo. "They can have a look later".
I overhear someone say "Do we all have to sit according to our signs?".
Neil has made beautiful menus for the evening on blue card describing the astrological associations with each course and on the back, the chart for the evening, upon which the menu is based.

The Astrologers' Feast

By tradition, astrologers periodically put aside their differences and join together to feast and celebate the cunning and subtlety of their craft.
Unlike the seventeenth century feasts described by Elias Ashmole, there is no 'Haunch of Venison' or 'Jowl of Sturgeon' on this menu. MsMarmitelover, being an 'Aquarian Cook', is committed to vegetarian fare, wholesome and sustainably sourced.
To celebrate tonight's gathering, Ms M has elected to cook the celestial picture prevailing this very evening, following the planetary rulerships of foodstuffs, thus upholding the time-honoured wisdom of Hermes Trismegistus: 'As above, so below...'
Bon Appetit, planet plotters!

Menu

Neptune in Aquarius
A divine draught of sparkling wine, tinged with Neptunian mystery
Saturn in Virgo
Seeds and grains fresh from the sheaves of the corn goddess
Uranus and Mars in Pisces
A spicy oriental soup using the red chillies and garlic of Mars, splashing down unexpectedly, in Uranian style, from Thailand.
Pluto in Capricorn
A roundel of mature Sussex goat's cheese on a dark bed of beluga lentils
Sun in Aries/Moon in Taurus
Specialite de la maison: Pommes Dauphinoises with full dairy cream, representing Luna, crowned by a blaze of solar rosemary
Mercury in Aries
A frisky salad of peppery rocket and spring shoots. Plus a dashing scarlet peperonata
Jupiter in Aquarius
An audacious dish in honour of The Lord of Abundance. Fruity and airy, add your own optimism.
Venus retrograde in Aries
A pudding of Venusian chocolate to recall the sensual delights of old love affairs, and to cheer the sweet-toothed goddess as she dallies through detriment in Aries, en route to exaltation and renewal in The Fishes.

My friend psychic Michelle Knight came. She, originally a Somers Town single mum, has pulled herself up by her bootstraps and made a fortune partly by writing a "'miz mem', in the Sunday Times best seller list it was" she informed me.
"What's a 'miz mem'?" I ask.
"It's a misery memoire. All about my childhood. It's called 'Touched by Evil: A Childhood Survived Against All Odds'"
She brought along two minor slebs: the warm and friendly Anna Richardson currently presenting a Channel 4 programme on sex education, and slightly raddled Trisha Walsh-Smith, the 'YouTube' divorcee. Trouble is I rarely watch TV so I didn't recognize either of them.
I did check out Trisha's YouTube videos and they are amusingly outrageous. You can sense her desperation, the injustice of her situation. She has written a musical wittily entitled 'Arm candy'. During the evening, I put it on the iPod speaker. It's electro-pop. The astrologers looked annoyed.


Hierarchy.

When you go to a restaurant you are playing with hierarchy. You, the customer, are the Lord and Lady. The staff are the servants, bowing and scraping. Obsequious behaviour is the order of the day, more so in expensive restaurants. Even when you host a dinner party at home, there is an element of this artificial behaviour. You put yourself out for your guests. You serve them. Clear up after them.
A home restaurant blurs these lines. It's my space which is, of course, like anybody's home, sacred, private, personal. On Saturday night I felt outnumbered in my own home. I really missed my sister. She would have controlled them.
To be brutally honest I didn't feel like they respected me! At one point I went out to the balcony to tell the smokers that the next course was served. They ignored me and the course. Some people were imperious to the staff, acting as if they were in a normal restaurant.
Johnny observed that the astrologers, for instance, were "competing with each other".
The atmosphere was that of an office party. The astrologers didn't 'get it'. One 'princess' asked for her bottle of white to be kept in the fridge, in between glasses.
Jo was trying to find room in the fridge and I said: "No. This is a home restaurant. We don't have the room. Tell her to fuck off."
Once again the issue of valuing yourself, what you do, rose it's head. Some people who had not pre-paid, for themselves, did not turn up. They didn't care that others, perhaps more motivated and interested, could not come as a result.
"Did you enjoy it?" I asked one woman as she left.
She glared at me then spat:"No. I missed most of it. And I hate chocolate."
I was speechless. Was it my fault that she arrived late (and drunk)? The real issue was that she didn't get to sit with her friends. Mixing with others is part of the charm of a home restaurant. First come, first seated. You have to ask your friends to save you a place if you want to sit with them.
No astrologers apart from Michelle Knight left a tip.(It's significant that people who are poor or who've known poverty are always the most generous). Earthy behaviour from celestial types...
Petra chocstar's van outside looked magical, twinkling pinkly like a secret cave in the dark. The negre en chemise was yet another treat for the guests. Neil Spencer wants to write a children's story based on Petra's chocmobile.

On a culinary and cultural level the evening was a tremendous success. It's certainly a steep learning curve this restaurant.


The chart of the evening Sun, Venus, Mercury (competitiveness) are close together in Aries in the 6th. Work. Service. Squaring my natal Mars.
Pluto squaring it all from the 3rd house of communication. Power stuff. Moon which represents the people, in 7th house of partnerships/open enemies. Opposite my natal moon at 5 degrees of Scorpio. Saturn in the 11th, barriers going up between people.
Composite of my chart and the chart of the evening: Pluto/Saturn in 1st house in Scorpio, intense competition. Four planets in Aquarius. T square to Sun/Merc from Uranus/node. Very cliquey.

Saturday, 28 March 2009

Aquarian cooking


Aquarian chef Roberto Cortez taught me to create 'caviar' from Blue Curacao liqueur for an Aquarian cocktail. Spherification class on April 7th.

 A chef and his laptop
The chemicals
Step 1
 Step 4
Step 6

Step 7
 
Step 7
Step 9

To turn a liquid into a sphere:
Step 1: 
Take 1 litre of water
6 g of Calcium chloride
Hand whisk it until fully dissolved.
Step 2: 
1.5g of Sodium Citrate (Sodium salt of Citric Acid) This is important for regulating the ph balance.
2.6g Sodium Alginate (this reacts with the lactate)
30g of caster sugar
100ml water.
Step 3: 
Add sugar to  Citrate then add the 100ml water.
Step 4:
Use a hand blender to emulsify the blend. Do it in something tall and narrow, this way you have a better distribution of the chemicals.
Step 5:
Add the Sodium Alginate. Use hand blender until slightly thickened and dissolved.You get a funky reaction. It doesn't dissolve easily.
Step 6:
Boil the Citrate/Alginate mixture in a small pan with not too much water. Whisk it as it boils. After 30 seconds it looks like wallpaper paste.
Step 7:
Strain it always to get rid of any bits, into a jug.
Leave to cool to room temperature.
Step 8:
Then take 350 g of Blue Curacao (or whatever you have decided to use). Incorporate it into the Citrate/Sodium Alginate mixture. If you can leave this mixture a while to settle.
Step 9:
Using a squeezy bottle (smell first) or a syringe to make droplets into the Calcium Chloride and water. Do it in small batches, say 20-30 at a time, otherwise they will all have different 'cooking' times. The first drops will have a thicker skin than the later drops. Leave it 2 -3 minutes. Scoop them out with a sieve or tea strainer in a scooping motion.
Step 10:
Rinse the droplets, which have now turned to 'caviar', liquid with a skin membrane which remains liquid inside, in fresh water, to take away any residual chemical taste.
The Raspberry Pomegranate 'air'.
Take 600m  juice
5g Soy Lecithin powder
90g sugar
A box of fresh raspberries
Big slug of Kir.
You mix all the ingredients together with a hand blender in one corner of the bowl. This way the froth consists of similar size bubbles.

Tuesday, 24 March 2009

Rosehip Syrup

On Sunday I started to sort out the garden. Clipping back the rambling rose, I picked off the rosehips. I will make rosehip syrup...
I have kept some heritage potatoes from the winter that have gone to seed. I will plant them in a big pot for easy access.

Monday, 23 March 2009

Underground Cooking Class time change

We have had much interest in the classes but everybody had the same complaint, we want to come but we are at work! So Roberto and I have changed the time to Tuesday evenings 7pm. 
We will replace next week's knife skills and vegetable class (which will be rescheduled at another time) with the chocolate class, in time for Easter!

Roberto was on a two year waiting list to study chocolate at the Seminar with Albert Adria of El Bulli at Chocovic chocolate school in Barcelona. 
About the Underground Cooking Class Roberto says:
"The chocolate class is good for beginners but I also incorporate advanced level knowledge that people can use for the rest of their lives.. it is information that you are only taught in advanced chocolate schools...
I find this information very important for anyone using chocolate for any application..."

More about Roberto and where he has studied:
*Chocolate course at Paris' Bellouet Conseil Ecole De Patisserie
*Pastry course at Ecole Gastronomique De Escoffier, Ritz Hotel Paris
*Le Cordon Bleu
*Ecole Lenotre, France
*Ecole des Soleil, L'Amandier restaurant, Mougins France
*Regional cuisine in Italy, Poland, Czech Republic, Spain, Mexico

Sunday, 22 March 2009

Smells like Spring spirit...







Straining the mushroom stock, picked on my trek to the Withnail and I cottage in Cumbria.


A mix of Portobello (brought from Portobello rd hehe), button and oyster mushrooms.

Chopping onions, melting them in butter

Adding equal parts double cream and milk for a frothy onion capuccino




 
The production line of ravioli, sealing the parcels with egg.

Cutting them with a small wooden zigzag wheel.


Laying out the ravioli to dry, some even on the Aga!

Chopping up the basil for the garnish, freshening up the wilted basil with ice.

The final plate, fresh ravioli stuffed with a mix of mushrooms, onion capuccino sauce. Created by Charlie Nelson.




        Rocket salad, 50p a bunch at Portobello. Salmon smeared with blackened seasoning, in a pouch of olive and walnut oil, white wine. 

      Mix for the tarte au citron  
 Rose-water meringues                                                                   
Chris Pople of Cheese and Biscuits plays 'Rocket Man' on the piano

Last night my parents came to the Underground Restaurant for the first time.
"Who else is coming?" asked my mum.
"Amongst others, four of Britain's top food bloggers" I say
"What are their names?" she asks.
"Cheese n Biscuits, Eat like a girl, Hollow legs and Food Stories"
"What imaginative parents they have!" quipped my mum.

Charlie and I spent all day making the ravioli. It's a meditative process, the ritual of kneading the egg yellow dough, feeding the tongue of pasta through the machine again and again, each time on a narrower notch, laying out the strips, a production line of little dollops of mushroom mixture sealed by egg into parcels. For the recipe read his blog post here.
I was chatting to Charlie about one of my guests for next weeks' astrology and food night, the renowned astrologer and psychic Jessica Adams. Jessica told me a few weeks ago that my great-grandmother is helping me with the Underground Restaurant. As she spoke I started to get goosebumps.



"Can you feel that?" she said, squinting at me.



"Yes" I replied, amazed, a spooky mix of disturb and comfort.
As I recounted this incident to Charlie, the same feeling happened, I felt a tingle, a shiver. I looked at Charlie and he, a sensible and down to earth young man, said:



"I'm coming out in goose pimples, look at my arms!"
Very weird. As if her spirit passed through the kitchen. 
One guest was vegan. The last few weeks have had almost entirely vegan menus. But I felt like making fish for tonight. Despite my atheism, unconsciously I do link Spring to Easter and Christianity, although the word Easter and the tradition of Easter eggs is pre-Christian, from Babylon. The symbol for Christianity is fish, Pisces. For my vegan guest I replaced the salmon with smoked tofu and seed burger. We made a special portion of vegan, no egg, pasta and used soy cream for the sauce (the onions did not melt properly in vegan margarine however). I made a vegan chocolate mousse with Green & Blacks' Mayan Gold. As Eat like a Girl remarked, it tasted like Fry's Chocolate Cream.

My teen and her friend the lycée bomb hoaxer waitressed. My parents sat with her parents and their 10 year old daughter, who was tucked up into my bed when she got tired. (File under 'yet another difference between normal restaurants and home restaurants').